CLOVELLY - A STEP BACK IN TIMEBideford, United Kingdom
Clovelly, raised upon rustic wooded slopes once owned by Matilda, consort of William the Conqueror, is mentioned in England's 900 year old Domesday Book.
Clinging to a cliff face that drops 400 feet in half a mile to the harbour below, Clovelly's cottages, chapels, craft shops, galleries, the Kingsley Museum, and the popular New Inn meander downhill along its precipitous cobbled High Street. Clovellians call their main thoroughfare “Up-Along” or “Down-Along” depending upon whether they are ascending or descending. Because of the street's gradient, cars are banned. Goods, and that includes visitor's luggage and everyday household requirements purchased by the locals, are lowered Down-Along and dragged Up-Along on custom made sledges. For a peek at hidden treasures when exploring this fishing enclave, one has only to take off along any one of its numerous side alleys. On its steep incline, artfully placed wooden benches coax passersby to stop awhile for spectacular views along the North Devon coast. Carved fruits and flowers from the Bavarian Alps add an Oberammergau aspect to some of the cottages. In a tumble of blossom, trailing fuchsia and petunias nestle in hanging baskets among tall sprays of lavender. A visit to the Clovelly donkey stable is essential. Huddled together companionably in a dim straw-fragrant interior, the cosmopolitan donkey clan; 10 English donkeys, 1 Irish and two French with names reflecting their origins; Donk, Sinead, Wellington, Pierre, Jakey Ted and two cute little fellows named Kiwi and Peter, live in semi-retirement. No longer beasts of burden and in keeping with their dignity, their duties are now mainly tourist designated. Before the advent of the sledge, heavy loads comprising beer barrels, laundry and garbage bags were stacked on special pack saddles and carried to the top of the cliff by these stocky little animals. Today one of their more pleasurable pursuits is posing for photographs and standing in the sun on Down-Along, while their owner Sue Kelly weaves bright ribbons for their harnesses. Clovelly may feel like the Mediterranean, with its brilliantly coloured mural in the Methodist chapel behind the New Inn. Its cobbled streets with flower bedecked cottages could be in Spain or southern France. The fish-tinted smell of the sea as boats rise and fall with the tides is reminiscent of Portugal. But Clovelly with its wattle and daub cottages; among them Donkey Shoe Cottage, Crazy Kate's Cottage, Oberammergau Cottage and Rat's Castle, is in fact pure unadulterated Devon. In days gone by the Red Lion Hotel, one of Clovelly's few hostelries, was a beer house for fishermen and locals. Its Snug bar, like all else in the village has changed little over the centuries. In its upstairs livingroom a letter written in the 17th century by King Charles 111 to Sir John Rous, Lord of Clovelly, is on display. In the bar below, while my husband sips Cobbler (a Devonian ale), I indulge with a cream tea; warm freshly baked scones heaped with strawberry jam and Devonshire clotted cream topped off with a steaming cuppa, Keiran Vanstone, the young barman, stands by enlightening me with stories of smugglers. Clovelly may appear serene on a sunny June afternoon, but it has in the past had a seedy side. To the east of the village there are caves that were used by smugglers bringing in duty free alcohol from France. Smuggling was rife during the Napoleonic Wars and the locals were not averse to dabbling in piracy and wrecking, a popular undertaking on both the Devon and Cornwall coasts. Legend tells of cannibals storing salted human flesh in dark caves nearby, but the story was never verified. Most believe the macabre tale was circulated by smugglers intent upon scaring off intruders. Mrs. Christine Hamlyn who inherited Clovelly in the 1800s is largely responsible for the village that we see today. This indomitable English woman took it upon herself to restore a neglected Clovelly and her restorations are recognised by her initials inscribed on many of the buildings. Hamlyn was subsequently given the honorary title of Queen of Clovelly by her grateful subjects and today her beloved village successfully lays claim to being one of England's most popular tourist destinations. I was not surprised to learn that this glorious place attracted artists and writers. Not lacking for historic celebrities, J.M.W. Turner, Charles Dickens, Rex Whistler, Rudyard Kipling and Charles Kingsely all have links with Clovelly. Kingsley, the clergyman, historian and novelist, spent his childhood here and his novel “Westwood Ho!” led to the founding of a town by the same name. His delightful children's classic “The Water Babies” was inspired by the time he spent in Clovelly. Dickens and Kipling mentioned Clovelly in their books and Whistler's paintings were used on Wedgewood china. Turner's painting of Clovelly's harbour resides in the National Gallery of Ireland. As in most English villages traditions play an important role. Annually on Shrove Tuesday, a ritual called Lentsherd is re-enacted. Village children with noise makers, tin cans and anything else that will set up a clatter on the cobbled High Street - are dragged on strings to the end of the harbour wall to scare the devil into the sea before the onset of Lent. The Clovelly Herring Festival in November is a grand event for foodies, with herring, kipper and bloaters on the menu. Shanty singing by “Shake a Leg” from Bideford, “Hanging Johnny” from Plymouth or Exmouth's “Shantymen set feet a-tapping. In the run-up to Christmas, villagers gather on the harbour front for an evening of carol singing. As winter closes in, the aroma from a hog roast, mince pies and mulled wine drift on the sea wind. The chances of meeting John Rous (a descendant of Christine Hamlyn) on the cobbles leading down to the sea are strong. In the 800 years Clovelly has changed hands only three times, and the Rous family have been Lords of Clovelly for close to 400 years. As it was in the past when the aristocracy ran their estates as private fiefdoms, the residents here are all tenants rather than owners of their properties. In Clovelly there is something for everyone here. Cliff walks, caves, and secret coves tempt those with a penchant for exploration. Wannabe sailors or adventurers can set off on a small boat for Lundy Island to learn about its smuggling history. For the not so active, sitting on the harbour wall eating Cornish ice cream and watching the world go by is a great way to spend an afternoon. |
TRAVEL DIY Clovelly Visitor Center Email | Website | TripAdvisor Devon, United Kingdom EX39 5 01237 431781 WHERE TO STAY NEW INN HOTEL Email | Website | TripAdvisor Phone High Street, Clovelly, Nr. Bideford, Devon EX39 5TQ B&B starts at about $90 per night for an ensuite double room. RED LION HOTEL Email | Website | TripAdvisor Phone Clovelly, Bideford, Devon EX39 5TF All rooms have sea or harbour views. Parking available. B&B starts at about $98 per person per night. WHERE TO EAT NEW INN HOTEL A menu sample - Duck and cherry pate with red onion marmalade, locally caught fish fried in a light beer batter served with lemon wedges, chips and a dressed green salad, poached pears with Devon clotted cream. Two courses start at about $34 per person. RED LION HOTEL Their speciality is game from the Clovelly estate. A menu sample - Fan of avocado with king prawns, Clovelly lobster (about $17 supplement), oven roasted duck breast with fondante potatoes, sauteed spinach with apricot and ginger chutney. Two courses start at about $37 per person |
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