A SIP OF LIQUID GOLD AT THE ICEHOUSE WINERY

Niagara-on-the-Lake, Ontario, Canada

Author and Photographer: NICOLA GORDON,
Publication Date: July 24, 2016

I have traveled far. An early morning start met with the brilliant orange of an autumn sunrise. I drove and watched the glow bathe the horizon and spread across the sky. I bid rise and shine to my still sleepy brain with too much coffee and continued the long drive. Now, as the disk of an autumn sun climbs the sky I turn down a gravel road and crunch and rumble my loud approach to the peaceful vineyard of Niagara's only all Icewine winery.

My destination presides in shy repose amongst the vines - no grand entrance, no gold-embossed sign giving loud declaration of intent. A renovated peach packing barn at the end of a gravel road states simply “The Ice House Winery”.

Today's trip was motivated by the promise of a delectable treat and my happy endorphins begin to dance with anticipation. Happy endorphins stop their dance as I find the door locked and the cavernous interior bathed in darkness. Tap, Tap, Tap... No answer. The long drive fuels motivation and I round the building. Tap! Tap! Tap! This time a little louder. The door creaks and a welcoming smile beckons me in a full hour before opening time (I confess, my research focused on delectable treats and did not include looking up The Ice House hours!)

My host introduces himself and I realize my good fortune. The Ice House literature states the following about my new acquaintance:
“Jamie Macfarlane was the “last man standing” of the original team who produced the first commercial Icewine. He has consecutively produced Icewine since then making him the most experienced Icewine maker in the world.”
The Ice House’s many international awards, including the coveted Grand Gold Monde Selection medal are a testament to the skill and international experience of my host. As a fan of this decadent drink, and as someone looking for the inside scoop on the Niagara regions famous beverage, I knew I was speaking to the expert.

Jamie overlooked my rude intrusion at the early hour, even overlooked my suggestion that I was here to try a ten AM tipple. (Hey, it sounded a little crazy to me too.) The sparkle of ‘Canada’s liquid gold’ filled my glass, and the sweet taste of The Ice Houses’ Northern Ice 2009 White Riesling sent my happy endorphins back into dance mode. This Riesling’s flavour profile describes ripe pear, mango, and papaya, with a creme brulee sweetness. The combination brings your taste buds alive! Next I enjoy the 2011 Red Cabernet Sauvignon. Jamie talks about cherry notes that mellow to fine port. I envision a cold winter night by the fire with this treat, and savour another long slow sip.

My last and highly anticipated tasting is served with the hint of a flourish, and I know that my guide has immense pride for this delicious creation. A 2007 White Vidal makes for a truly delectable N’Icewine Slushie. This is the treat that led to today's pilgrimage to wine country. It requires more than a tasting and my drink accompanies me to the very last drop.

While The Ice House is a wonderful place for tasting, as a working vineyard and winery, it’s also a great place to observe and learn about the process. The opportunity to share the story of Icewine with visitors is embraced. Enjoy the insights of a winemaker with decades of worldwide experience. Now step to the balcony for a full view of the Ice House production floor. You can almost reach over and touch the cold and shiny surface of an immense fermentation tank. Close your eyes, take a sweet sip, and think about this:
You are drinking Icewine in an old beautifully renovated barn among the tanks and barrels where it was made. For a wine lover, this moment of connection is heavenly!

A display provides ‘newbies’ with a helpful rendition of the process from grape to glass - a short factual introduction of the basics. Back to my host for the interesting tidbits though. With the obvious question from many guests, Jamie answers for me before I can ask - Why is Icewine so expensive? Of course, when frozen grapes are crushed they yield barely a drop in comparison to the crushed fall harvest grapes of table wine.

Now, for those modern travelers enjoying a wine country pilgrimage, power up the smart phone and Google for ‘Karen King on The Big Decision’. You’ll agree - pictures speak a thousand words! Karen King, sensory expert, co-owner of The Ice House and wife of my winemaking guide Jamie shows viewers why Icewine is expensive. Karen provides CBC hosts Steven and Chris with glasses of grapes - one frozen, one not. Steven and Chris take on the challenge of crushing with more than enough enthusiasm and end with two glasses of well pulverized grapes. The unfrozen grapes yield about 10 drops, the frozen grapes - not one! Point well made Karen - if I must enjoy the oh so heavenly taste of Icewine, yes, I will most definitely remember this demo before I whine about the price!

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